Applicants reference herein the patent applications of ROLAND RAMIN for Ser. No. 09/141,515 entitled THICKENED FILM-FORMING COMPOSITION and PASCAL ARNAUD for Ser. No. 09/141,514 entitled THICKENED COMPOSITION COMPRISING FUSED SILICA both filed on even date herewith and incorporate the disclosures thereof specifically by reference herein.
The present invention relates to make-up-removing compositions and to the use, for the preparation of a composition and/or in a composition for removing make-up from keratinous material, of a polysaccharide alkyl ether combined with a make-up-removing system. In particular, this composition is intended for removing make-up from keratinous material such as the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair and the skin (cheeks, forehead, neck, eyelids).
The compositions conventionally used for removing make-up from keratinous material are generally in the form of a lotion or a milk. In addition, they contain oils and/or surfactants which allow the make-up to be removed. Such a composition is described in particular in patent application EP-A-705,592.
Although very effective, these known compositions have a certain number of drawbacks. In particular, they are often difficult to take up and can run between the fingers.
In order to thicken the compositions, it is known to add a thickener to the composition. When the composition mainly comprises a non-aqueous phase, i.e. the composition comprises either an organic solvent or an oil, a thickener of lipophilic nature is used, in a known manner. Thus, a clay such as bentonite can be used, for example, to thicken a fatty phase, but this clay has the drawback of making the thickened composition opaque.
It is also known to use fused silica to thicken a non-aqueous phase, but the compositions thus thickened have a tendency to be translucent.
In addition, these thickeners of lipophilic nature are only compatible with a limited number of solvents and oils commonly used in make-up-removing products, thus limiting the variety of formulations of these compositions.
There is a need to have available a make-up-removing product in more or less fluid, gelled form which has both transparency properties and good rheology.
The inventors have observed that this aim can be achieved by using, as thickener, a specific polysaccharide alkyl ether in a make-up-removing composition. This thickener makes it possible to prepare make-up-removing compositions in gelled form which can be transparent. These gelled compositions moreover have good rheology, which can range from a fluid texture to a thick texture, according to the manufacturer""s wishes.
In addition, this thickener is compatible with many solvents and oils, thus allowing a wide variety of solvents and oils to be used in the make-up-removing compositions and allowing novel cosmetic products to be envisaged.
A subject of the invention is thus the use, for the preparation of a composition and/or in a composition for removing make-up from keratinous material, of a polysaccharide alkyl ether formed of units containing at least two different saccharide rings, each unit containing at least one hydroxyl group substituted with a saturated hydrocarbon-based alkyl chain combined with a make-up-removing system comprising at least one non-aqueous solvent and/or an oil.
In the thickener according to the invention, the term xe2x80x9chydrocarbon-based alkyl chainxe2x80x9d is understood to refer to a linear or branched chain preferably containing from 1 to 24, more preferably from 1 to 10, better still from 1 to 6 and more especially from 1 to 3, carbon atoms. In particular, the alkyl chain is selected from ethenyl and propenyl and preferably saturated chains and in particular methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl and n-pentyl. These alkyl ethers can be manufactured as described in documents EP-A-281,360 and EP-A-708,114, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether has a weight-average molecular weight preferably of greater than 100,000, and more preferably greater than 200,000. This molecular weight can be up to 1 million. This alkyl ether can preferably contain from one to six, and better still from two to four, hydroxyl groups per unit, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based alkyl chain.
The saccharide rings are selected in particular from mannose, galactose, glucose, furanose, rhamnose and arabinose.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkyl ether of a gum and more particularly of a gum which is nonionic overall, i.e. one which contains few or no ionic groups. As appropriate gums, mention may be made, for example, of guar gum, in which the unit comprises a galactose and a mannose, carob gum, in which the unit comprises a galactose and a mannose, karaya gum, which is a complex mixture of rhamnose, galactose and galacturonic acid, and gum tragacanth, which is a complex mixture of arabinose, galactose and galacturonic acid.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether is a guar gum derivative. Thus, advantageously, the alkyl ether is preferably an alkyl galactomannan with a C1 to C6, and better still C1 to C3, alkyl chain and more particularly ethyl guar having a degree of substitution of from 2 to 3 and in particular from about 2.5 to 2.8, as described in the documents RD 95378007 (October 1995) and EP-A-708,114, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated herein by reference. This gum is in particular that sold by the company Aqualon under the names N-HANCE-AG 200(copyright) and N-HANCE AG 50(copyright).
The concentration of alkyl ether depends on the desired pharmaceutical form and consistency for the make-up-removing composition. In particular, the weight ratio of the amount of solvent and/or of oil to the amount of thickener is selected, for example, in the range preferably from 5 to 1000. The composition according to the invention can contain, for example, an amount of polysaccharide alkyl ether preferably ranging from 0.1 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight and better still from 3% to 6% by weight.
According to the invention, the expression make-up-removing system is understood to refer to a compound or a mixture of compounds having the property of removing the make-up present on keratinous material.
The make-up-removing system can comprise at least one non-aqueous solvent (or said organic solvent) or at least one make-up-removing oil or at least one surfactant, or mixtures thereof.
The make-up-removing system is selected depending on the nature of the make-up to be removed.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the make-up-removing system can comprise at least one organic solvent. This solvent can be selected in particular from:
ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone and acetone;
alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol and cyclohexanol;
glycols that are liquid at room temperature, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and pentylene glycol;
propylene glycol ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate and dipropylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether;
esters with a short chain, (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate and isopentyl acetate;
ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether and dichlorodiethyl ether;
alkanes that are liquid at room temperature, such as decane, heptane, dodecane and cyclohexane;
aromatic cyclic compounds that are liquid at room temperature, such as toluene and xylene;
aldehydes that are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde and acetaldehyde.
Esters and ketones having not more than 10 carbon atoms are more preferably used, and more particularly methyl ethyl ketone, ethyl acetate, methyl acetate or butyl acetate.
The solvents can be present in a proportion preferably of from 0 to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 20% to 98% by weight.
These solvents are more particularly suitable for removing make-up from the nails: in this case, the composition constitutes a nail varnish dissolver.
Thus, another subject of the invention is a nail varnish dissolver containing at least one solvent selected from methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol, cyclohexanol, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, diethyl ether, dimethyl ether, dichlorodiethyl ether, decane, dodecane, cyclohexane, xylene, benzaldehyde and acetaldehyde.
According to a second embodiment of the invention, the make-up-removing system can comprise at least one make-up-removing oil. As make-up-removing oils, mention may be made in particular of:
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum jelly, isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane and equivalents;
fatty acid esters, and in particular esters having a total number of carbon atoms ranging preferably from 12 to 38 and better still from 12 to 20, in particular the esters obtained from a straight- or branched-chain alcohol having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and from a straight- or branched-chain fatty acid having from 8 to 36 carbon atoms, and better still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
The ester used as make-up-removing oil can be selected, in particular, from the group consisting of dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, methyl myristate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, ethyl myristate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate, methyl palmitate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl isostearate and isononyl isononanoate.
The oil can be present in a proportion preferably of from 0 to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 20% to 98% by weight.
According to a third embodiment of the invention, the make-up-removing system can further comprise at least one surfactant. This make-up-removing system comprises one or more surfactants having a make-up-removing action.
The surfactant can be of the anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type, but preferably of the nonionic type. Among the nonionic surfactants, those particularly preferred are:
polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cREMCOPAL 21912 ALxe2x80x9d by the company Gerland,
polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cTRITONxc3x97100xe2x80x9d by the company Rohm and Haas, and
condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, such as those sold under the name xe2x80x9cSYNPERONIC PExe2x80x9d by the company ICI, and in particular those with the reference numbers L 31, L 64, F 38, F 88, L 92, P 103, F 108 and F 127.
Among the anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:
alkyl ether sulphates, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cTEXAPON ASVxe2x80x9d by the company Henkel,
alkyl sulphoacetates, such as the products sold under the name xe2x80x9cLATHANOL LALxe2x80x9d by the company Stepan,
alkyl sulphosuccinates, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cSODIUM DIOCTYL SULPHOSUCCINATExe2x80x9d by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc,
alkylamido sulphosuccinates, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cREWODERM S 1333xe2x80x9d by the company Rewo,
alkylamido polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cLAMEPON Sxe2x80x9d by the company Grunau, and
acyl sarcosinates, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cORAMIX L 30xe2x80x9d by the company SEPPIC.
Among the amphoteric surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:
alkylamidopropyldimethylbetaines, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cTEGOBETAINE L 7xe2x80x9d by the company Goldschmidt,
alkylamidobetaines, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cINCRONAM 30xe2x80x9d by the company Croda,
imidazoline derivatives, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cCHIMEXANE HDxe2x80x9d by the company Chimex, and
N-alkyl-xcex2-iminodipropionates, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cMONATERIC ISA 35xe2x80x9d by the company Mona.
The surfactant can be present in a proportion preferably of from 0 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
When the make-up-removing system comprises a make-up-removing oil and/or a surfactant, the make-up-removing composition is particularly suitable for removing make-up from the eyes (eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows) and from the face (forehead, cheeks, neck), as well as for removing make-up from the hair.
Thus, another subject of the invention is a product for removing make-up from the eyes and/or the face and/or the hair, comprising at least one make-up-removing oil selected from the group formed by isododecane, squalane, fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 12 to 38, except for isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate and 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, and/or at least one make-up-removing surfactant.
When the make-up-removing system comprises at least one surfactant, it is normally desirable for the make-up-removing system to contain either at least one non-aqueous solvent or at least one oil in order to allow the make-up-removing composition to be thickened with the polysaccharide alkyl ether defined above. In this case, the oil can be a make-up-removing oil or an oil conventionally used in the cosmetics or dermatological field, referred to as a complementary oil.
Moreover, these complementary oils can also be added to the make-up-removing system when this system comprises no surfactants.
Among the non-make-up-removing complementary oils, mention may be made of:
fatty alcohols such as 2-octyldodecanol;
silicone oils, in particular of low viscosity (preferably less than 100 cst at 25xc2x0 C.), such as linear or branched polysiloxanes with a low degree of polymerization, for instance methylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, ethylmethylpolysiloxane, ethylphenylpolysiloxane, hydroxymethylpolysiloxane, alkylpolydimethylsiloxane and cyclic polysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclopentasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof;
oils of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, for example hydrogenated polyisobutenes;
oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.
These non-make-up-removing complementary oils are preferably used in concentrations ranging from 0 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0 to 40%.
A gelled composition resulting from the combination of the polysaccharide alkyl ether and the make-up-removing system, as defined above, can be used as it is and can itself constitute a composition for removing make-up from keratinous material. It can also be incorporated into a more complex formulation for removing make-up from keratinous material, in an effective amount to obtain both the desired texture and viscosity, and good removal of make-up from the keratinous material.
These complementary oils are preferably used in concentrations preferably ranging from 0 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 0 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel phase.
In addition, an aqueous phase can preferably be added, in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 5% to 10% by weight.
They can also contain conventional adjuvants such as dyes, fragrances, preserving agents, sunscreens and moisturizers. These adjuvants are present in amounts preferably ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
The invention also relates to a process for removing make-up from keratinous material, characterized in that an effective amount of a composition containing a gel formed from a polysaccharide alkyl ether and from a make-up-removing system comprising a non-aqueous solvent and/or an oil, as defined above, is applied to the surface of the keratinous material.